Today we begin our tale of adventure by getting a little bit into the expedition vessel that would be our home on the open ocean for the next 10 days.
Our ship was the smallest of the Antarctica bound civilian vessels, which meant those of us embarking on our little metal mobile home would feel every dip and bob of the unstoppable ocean ahead of us. While that absence of ship stabilizers may have been a turn off for some, for us, we felt it gave us the opportunity to earn our achievement of crossing the infamous Drake's Passage with grit. With a total number of 75 passengers by the end of the 10 days, everyone knew everyone else's faces and best stories. We would make our daily trips to landing sites or simply tour the waters on excursions in the black zodiacs that were stored in the stern (back) of the ship.
The paucity of signal and abundance of awe-striking beauty allowed those 10 days to be filled with spontaneity, living in the moment, and unobstructed camaraderie, complete with drunken karoake and dance parties on a few nights.
We also learned a small tidbit about The Ushuaia that made my day: the ship was originally built in the US as a spy ship and once its reconnassaince missions were completed, it was sold in Argentina to be used as an expedition vessel into the northern and southern Arctic regions.
Embarking from Ushuaia, Argentina:
As we boarded the ship the sun was just setting and watching the ship as it undocked and began its southern bound journey beyond civilization slowly brought a warm and electric feeling of excitement.
As we moved, the beautiful coastal town of Ushuaia, Argentina, the southernmost point of human civilization on the globe, became smaller and smaller, its majestic snow covered glacial mountains shrinking in size as the ocean widened.
Just at the horizon line the sun was shining over the last tip of land, as if to assure us that land would be be awaiting us upon our safe return.
My favorite shots of the ship from our landing and excursion sites:
DRAKE'S PASSAGE and the moment of Entry to Antarctica:
The journey through Drake's Passage was not a joke. The swells of the seas in this treacherous section were as high as 6-7meters tall and we could feel every bit of it.
Watching the boat swing back and forth from inside its railings was incredible, as we would see only sky and then suddenly the ocean directly in front of us, as if the boat was about to capsize.
One of the most beautiful things about these testing waters was the electric blue color of agitated water that would come out of hiding from the dark, nearly black surface of the Antarctic oceans.
Lying in bed to sleep was an entire process, as we stuffed pillows and extra comforters beside us to swaddle ourselves in our beds. I learned quickly that the best way to sleep was either on my back or proned on my belly, as it prevented my body from being rolled back and forth like a baker's rolling pin. The initial nausea existed intensely, but once one found their sea legs and learned ti move and lean WITH the ship and not against it, the experience became more of a fun challenge.
All of it was profoundly worth it as we heard our Expedition leader announce on the overhead PA system into all our rooms: Fellow Expeditioners, we have just crossed into the Antarctic circle and are officially in the territory of Antarctica.
We leaped up to windows and outside to the decks, welcomed by the sight of endless ocean and the beginnings of the most wonderous icebergs.
On we go!
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